Maru Coffee

A Vanilla Bean latte and an iced Americano account for most of what crosses this counter, in a room pared back to wood, stone and daylight.

A Los Angeles roaster's first New York room

Maru began in Los Angeles and opened its first New York location in Williamsburg, roasting its own coffee and keeping the menu short enough to read at a glance. It has been named a Best New Cafe finalist at the Sprudgie Awards. Service is over the counter, and the queue moves without ceremony.

Light, wood and stone

The room is bright and airy: natural light, warm wood, clean stone floors and a restrained design that leaves the coffee as the loudest thing in it. Quiet is the operating condition rather than a happy accident, which makes this a room to sit in as much as one to pass through.

Order the Vanilla Bean latte, then look at the case

Order the Vanilla Bean latte first. It is the drink the café is known for and the clearest look at what the roast does under milk, sweet but not sugary.

The iced Americano is the plainer counterpart, the order for a hot afternoon or for anyone who wants the coffee unadorned. On the food side the case is short: a croissant or a canelé, both sized for a quick sit rather than a full breakfast.