THE FRENCH CREPES

Batter goes on the griddle when the order does, spread thin, left to set, then folded around whatever was asked for and handed straight across. That is the entire proposition at this Los Angeles market stall, and it is the reason to eat here rather than somewhere with a dining room.

Sweet and savory from the same pan

The list runs both ways. Savory crepes make the stall a lunch counter, sweet ones turn it into dessert at the end of a walk through the market, and the same pan handles both in the order they are called. Nothing sits waiting under a lamp, which is the practical argument for a crepe cooked in front of you.

Waffles and panini share the counter

The menu does not stop at crepes. Belgian waffles and panini sit on the same short list, so the stall works for someone who wants something hot and savory as readily as for someone after sugar. The counter is small and the range is deliberately tight, which is what keeps the cooking fast.

What to order first

Take a savory crepe if this is a meal and a sweet one if it is not. The waffle is the alternative when you want something sturdier than a folded crepe, and the panini is the order that travels best. This is counter service, so plan on carrying it away rather than settling in.