% Arabica New York Nolita

Espresso, Kyoto latte, matcha

Three drinks carry this counter: espresso, the Kyoto latte and the Spanish latte, with matcha as the standing alternative for anyone off coffee. % Arabica’s Nolita shop is one of several New York City outposts of the brand, and it works as a compact neighbourhood coffee stop rather than a destination roastery. Nolita means north of Little Italy, and the shop sits among the brand’s other New York rooms in Midtown, 30 Rock and Dumbo. Behind the drinks sits the brand’s blend and single-origin programme, including a Nolita blend of Ethiopian and Brazilian coffee, with origin bags such as Ethiopia Natural Sidama, Colombia Huila Monteblanco and El Salvador Gesha sold beside the bar. Order espresso for the most direct version, or one of the named milk drinks for the version most people come for.

A small, designed room with a queue

The shop is streamlined and pale, designed by ciguë, with the feel of a loft cut down to counter size. That look is the brand signature and it is why the room photographs the way it does, but the practical reality is a queue: order, wait while the drink is made, then take a seat if one has opened up. It gets packed and people linger, so a table is never guaranteed. Service is quick and the latte art is part of the presentation. A tight layout and an exterior sink keep the line moving faster than the size of the room suggests. It suits a repeat neighbourhood stop more than a long afternoon.

Pair the pastry to the drink

Ordering runs on three tracks: espresso drinks, matcha and the pastry case. Espresso is the plainest entry into the coffee, the Kyoto latte and Spanish latte are the ones to try for the house’s sweeter register, and dark lattes sit alongside them. Matcha is the clearest non-coffee choice, hot or iced. The food is light and pastry-led, which makes pairing simple: a cardamom bun with espresso, an everything bagel croissant with a Spanish latte, an almond croissant with a Kyoto latte, or a plain croissant with hot matcha. There is no brunch menu and no kitchen behind it, and the shop is better for that; food is a companion to the drink rather than the reason to sit down.